New Gabo Island lighthouse keeper carries on 160-year-old tradition - ABC News

Topic:Human Interest

It takes a certain kind of person to want to live alone on a remote island for six months of the year.

But life on Gabo Island is so magical, Sandy Duthie couldn't wait for the chance to do just that.

The island and its iconic lighthouse are surrounded by one of the world's largest colonies of little penguins, and the rough sea is teeming with whales, seals and dolphins.

When Mr Duthie took on the role of the island's newest caretaker earlier this year, he became part of the 160-year-old lighthouse's history.

Gabo Island lighthouse was made from locally sourced pink granite. (ABC News: Jessica Schremmer)

Handing over the keys to Mr Duthie was island veteran Leo op den Brouw who, after spending every second month alone on the island for the past 25 years, has returned permanently to his family and life on the mainland.

The Gabo Island lighthouse, completed in 1862 using locally sourced pink granite rock, is Australia's second tallest at 47 metres, a towering sentinel above the tiny island, which is just 2.4 kilometres long and 800 metres at its widest.

Gabo Island sits 14 kilometres off the north-eastern Victorian coast.

In times past, dozens of people have called this rocky, windswept outstation home.

But now, solitary caretakers work in month-on, month-off shifts to watch over the island and its light station.

Access from the air is restricted, so the only way for visitors and caretakers to reach the island is by boat.

That means tracking down one of the three fishermen who can make the 14-kilometre trip from Mallacoota, on Victoria's East Gippsland coast.

Mobile phone reception is intermittent, and even on a sunny day the weather can close in without warning, making the return journey impossible.

At 47 metres tall, Gabo Island's lighthouse is the second tallest in Australia. (ABC News: Fiona Broom)

Living alone on an island for weeks on end would seem terrifying to many — but new caretaker Mr Duthie, 42, couldn't be happier.

"I had this dream if this job ever came up, I was definitely applying for it," he said.

New lighthouse keeper Sandy Duthie says he is drawn to the island's history. (ABC News: Fiona Broom)

"I've been so lucky and feel so privileged to have this job now.

"It's nice to get away from technology, to not have a phone signal."

This telephone was previously used to contact the mainland. (ABC News: Fiona Broom)

While Mr Duthie revels in the solitude of the island, he sometimes misses the conveniences of life on the mainland.

"There's been previous keepers who've been here for over five years in one stint – I find that incredible," he said.

"After being here for four or five weeks, you begin to really long for certain things, just to be able to go into the shops, to see friends and family, to phone somebody when you want to."

Gabo Island, off north-eastern Victoria, can only be reached by boat. (ABC News: Jane Cowan)

For outgoing caretaker Mr op den Brouw, 70, life on the island has been a quarter of a century of joy.

"I'm just one page in a 160-year-old history book," he said.

Leo op den Brouw has taken care of Gabo Island and its lighthouse for 25 years. (ABC News: Fiona Broom)

He's witnessed major changes to the island's natural life, as well as developments in lighthouse technology.

The little penguin population has dropped from about 30,000 pairs to 10,000 pairs, he estimates, while hundreds of seals now roam the island.

"That's a mystery … we've even had the experts in both seals and penguins all scratching their heads trying to work it out," he said.

The island's seal colony has increased, but the little penguin population has been in decline in recent years. (ABC News: Fiona Broom, Michael Groom )

The island's caretakers began documenting the mysteries of the weather from the first years of its operation, taking meticulous, hand-written records every six hours that date back to 1859.

Watching over the natural rhythms of life keeps Gabo Island guardians grounded in the present.

"I'm quite happy to be in my own company, and keeping occupied and busy's never hard because there's 101 duties to do to maintain the light station and the environment," Mr op den Brouw said.

Leo op den Brouw says the many tasks required of the lighthouse keeper have kept boredom at bay. (ABC News: Fiona Broom )

"I'm seeing that with [Sandy]. He's enthusiastic and he's running around doing all this stuff and I think, 'Oh yeah, 20 years ago I was just like that'."

Mr op den Brouw says he loved a sunset barbecue at the old harbour and swimming in his favourite island spots, so he's retiring with some reluctance.

"I feel sort of sad to be leaving the place because I thought I'd be here until they dragged me off kicking and screaming, or in a box," he said.

"But, you know, time moves on, and we've got this young bloke who's pretty interested and very keen … so I feel like I'm handing it over to someone who's going to keep the place looking good and continue improving what's here."

Leo op den Brouw, left, is handing the keys to the Gabo Island lighthouse to Sandy Duthie. (ABC News: Jessica Schremmer)

"Young bloke" Mr Duthie is well aware of the important role he has taken on.

An arborist for almost 20 years in his native Scotland, Mr Duthie moved to Mallacoota with his partner about five years ago.

He first visited Gabo Island two years ago to manage invasive weeds, and dreamed of one day becoming its caretaker.

It's an island with thousands of years of history — some of it incredible, and some sad, he says.

Leo op den Brouw teaches new lighthouse keeper Sandy Duthie about Gabo Island's history. (ABC News: Jessica Schremmer)

"There's a huge responsibility, and a lot of [the work] is self-driven," he said.

"The history of the island is twofold: there's Indigenous heritage on the island – a lot of evidence there – and the more recent settlers' history.

"A lot of it's not written down … It's all in different pockets all around the [keeper's] house and in different people's memories."

The assistant keeper's cottage is now a guesthouse for Gabo Island visitors. (ABC News: Fiona Broom)

The heritage buildings are home to now-disused lighthouse technology and photographs of former caretakers and their families.

On one wall hangs photos of the 19th century lighthouse keepers who banged pots and pans in the dead of night to warn ships they were nearing land.

Mementos and photographs of past inhabitants ensure the island's history is preserved. (ABC News: Fiona Broom)

In another corner are the flares that Mr op den Brouw remembers shooting out on stormy nights, before automated lights were developed to cut through the darkness.

And the beacon will continue to shine from the statuesque lighthouse — one of only a handful of island watchtowers remaining in Victoria.

It's the job of the next generation of caretakers to preserve the island and its iconic landmark for the future.

"Regardless of whether we're here or not, this island is still here," Mr Duthie said.

"But we're here to look after it and try and preserve what the island's all about."

The Gabo Island lighthouse is Australia's second tallest, and Victoria's only operating island beacon. (ABC News: Fiona Broom)